Albania holidays

One of Europe’s most underrated capitals, Tirana blends Soviet-era architecture with edgy neighbourhoods filled with leafy patio bars and colourful street art.

Albania spent decades behind the Iron Curtain, most of it under the rule of dictator Enver Hoxha. The scars from that era are visible in the thousands of concrete bunkers that dot the landscape. Today, some have been turned into contemporary art galleries. In Tirana, the House of Leaves museum tells the story of Hoxha’s extensive surveillance state.

Albania’s four UNESCO World Heritage Sites are all worth visiting. They include the archaeological site of Butrint, with ruins dating to prehistoric times. The cobblestone streets of historic Gjirokastër lead to a centuries-old Ottoman castle with sweeping valley views. Berat, nicknamed ‘The City of a Thousand Windows’, tells a fascinating story of religious coexistence between medieval Christians, Muslims and Jews.

One of the best things to do in Albania is hiking. In the northern part of the country, the Albanian Alps contain some of Europe’s most challenging trails. A popular route runs from Valbona to Theth, winding through dense beech forests and waterfalls. Charming mountain villages along the way brim with local hospitality, and have guest houses that cater to hikers.

Arguably the best-kept secret in the Mediterranean, the Albanian Riviera (or Bregu) is where you’ll find the top beaches in Albania. Ksamil is known for its beach clubs and water sports, while larger Sarandë has sprawling resorts and a buzzing nightlife. A few miles away is the mysterious Blue Eye, a cold spring so deep that nobody is said to have touched the bottom.

Getting out on the water is a must on your Albanian getaway. That could be a boat trip up the crystalline waters of the Shala River. Or it could be a day of rafting on the Vjosa, one of Europe’s last wild rivers and the backbone of the country’s newest national park. Take a dip in a thermal bath, or spot Dalmatian pelicans from the shores of Lake Shkodra.

Albanian cuisine is a mix of Mediterranean and Balkan influences. You’ll generally find more meat and pasta in the north and more citrus and seafood in the south. Restaurants in Albania serve dishes like ‘byrek’ (savoury pastry), ‘tavë kosi’ (lamb casserole baked with yoghurt) and ‘fërgesë’ (a stew of tomato, feta and peppers). Good news for vegetarians: Albanians are among the world leaders in fruit and vegetable consumption.

Discover the story of a turbulent past in some of the best museums in Albania. The National History Museum in Tirana has exhibits dedicated to the Albanian nun Mother Teresa. In northern Shkodra, the haunting Site of Witness and Memory is a prison turned memorial to the victims of communist repression. Also in Shkodra, the Marubi Museum showcases excellent photography.

Shoulder season is the best time to visit Albania. Late spring and early autumn have the nicest weather and thinner crowds. The beach resorts fill up in summer when soaring temperatures make it too hot to stay in the cities. Take extra care if you’re planning to do strenuous hiking — the Alps can get humid and muggy.

This is a great destination for travellers looking to experience all the beauty of the Mediterranean on a strict budget. It’s pretty easy to enjoy a cheap holiday to Albania. The average short taxi ride is around 1,500 Albanian lekë (L). You can grab a cheap meal for as little as L1,000, and a coffee or local beer costs around L200.